假期開Burg,也順便試試新杯的表現 (話說今日經過IFC Lane Crawford,便買了Lehmann手造Universal試試,如果表現良好才會考慮買其紅白酒杯)。
這個位於Gevrey Chambertin的Dupont Tisserandot酒莊,原本想慢慢細說其家族歷史,包括酒名中的Gisele Tisserandot和Bernard Dupont的故事,不過既然酒莊已被Domaine Faiveley收購,故事則從缺,但幸好酒莊的管理和理念都仍是跟著Dupont方向的。Dupont Tisserandot較有名的是村酒,Charmes特級田;Mazis和Corton-Rouget都有一定知名道。不過整體來說都是定位作精品酒莊,也因此價錢可以略平。本酒的Latricières-Chambertin知名度比附近的葡萄園都要低,包括對正北面的Chambertin。但Latricières-Chambertin的表土厚 (位處背斜谷後,泥土都瀉下來),酒的風格比較優雅,也較能早飲。
本酒的顏色就是中等啡紅,已到成熟期。
香氣成熟,已發展到高峰,包括熟肉、野味都已經是主軸了。那些同樣吸引的紅果香餘下一絲絲的,用來作欣賞的話是足夠的,但被不屬高強度的類別。另外,Nutmeg、奶油香和olive同樣不少得。整體來說,本酒的香氣最少都有中等以上,也許沒有太多迷人的元素,但反映風土、造酒和發展方面則沒有問題。
入口的tannin已經融化,像是咖啡加spice、minerals的力量,足以支撐起本酒的結構。味道上的複雜度有餘,輕盈的口感也令本酒更耐飲。不過,本酒的果味略少,味道上的吸引力有限;也許結構和發展令本酒接近滿分,但果味始終是失分位,容易令本酒變成一枝”有優雅感的酒精飲料”,而不是Latricières-Chambertin的代表。
本酒的香氣和入口都有個共通點,就是發展步伐一致,而且是發展速度相當高的酒,現在飲已經是高峰,輕盈和優雅加上質感,是本酒的最大利器,足以令人一飲而盡。不過,果味是其短板,令本酒的味道有點追不上複雜度。這個斜坡緩緩的Latricières-Chambertin,在2014似乎遇上一點挑戰。
評分:86
售賣:Wine Impact HKD 890
p.s. 這個Lehmann的手造Universal,飲這個香氣略優雅風格的Burg是正好,有機會說多一點。

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